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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.